Lussmann’s

BEST PART: The Cheeks!

We went for the set menu (£11.95 for two courses, though I paid a surcharge of £2 to upgrade to steak), which is very good value for the quality of food on offer. I even treated myself to a beer, though because of the unusual positioning of the beer on the menu I failed to notice it, and panic bought a still very good Golden Beer from the local Three Brewers.

There was something different about the interior design of Lussmann’s from our last visit. The keen eyes of my wife who knows about interior design felt there was a disparity between the clean retro lines of the 50s style chairs and tables and the classy green leatherette ones with their marble table partners.There was something funny going on with the floor too. Either it or the retro tables were new but at least one of them was a mistake, our vote going for the floor. It is OK to mix colours when the design is the same; what fun to have half of a square in blue and half in green. But to jumble up the pattern and the colours was confusing and just looked like the floor had been laid by an idiot. They only had to look next door at the Bakehouse to see how to do the retro look properly.

Anyway, on to the food. The starters were superfine, and luckily my Cod Cheeks with Chilli and Lime slightly nudged my wife’s Pear, Endive and Blue Cheese salad giving me the starter bragging rights. I hadn’t even considered cod having cheeks, let alone consuming them, but I am now glad they do. Unfortunately this is where things began to go slightly down-hill. My view on starters is that they get things ready for the main course which should follow shortly after. The worst thing that could happen (well, not the worst, clearly, but disappointing) is that your stomach, teased by the starter tit-bits, then has to wait and wait, wondering all the time if maybe those cod cheeks were all there is. A sudden influx of ladies of a certain age seemed to overwhelm the staff and we were left to wait, nursing our drinks, for almost 40 minutes. In the evening this would be annoying but in a lunch break it was almost enough to make us abandon the endeavour. We eventually managed to attract enough attention to enquire on it’s whereabouts, and it did follow shortly after, but by this point we had to wolf it down. There was more than one Vegetarian main  that didn’t involve nuts which is always pleasing to my wife. Unfortunately she didn’t think she made the right choice on this occasion. The Medetarianian Vegetable Paella was served in a fiddly little Balti bowl with not enough room on the plate to decant it so the vegetables would have been better cut into manageable pieces. There wasn’t enough room to manoeuvre the cutlery inside the said brimming bowl. However it was tasty enough. My steak was fine it is true, but no opportunity to savour it. My wife had to finish her troublesome paella alone as I dashed back to the office some 15 minutes late.

Good food but slow service and as I was late back to work….

6.5/10

http://www.lussmanns.com/